May | 2014 | Silver in Gold

Like many of the bus journeys on this trip I was once again greeted by stunning vistas across unspoilt countryside. Ancient terraces, still in use, cut into mountainsides up steep valleys, wrecked lorries and buses lying crushed a few hundred metres below where they had left the road. It occurred to me that these had been missing on the road to Axum and somehow it seemed the lack of tarmac made the drive safer – perhaps drivers are more cautious there. After a few hours driving we started our descent towards a large town. It was too soon to be Mekele and there were no other large centres of population on the route so I knew that I had successfully boarded the right bus- ahead of me was Adigrat It would have been a great to stop and take a few pictures, but one of the trials of public transport means that that is not an option – for the driver this was work not a guided tour, Mekele beckoned. Once down in the town I alighted and began to soak in the atmosphere watching the bus fade into the distance.

The Catholic Cathedral in Adigrat

Adigrat had a special draw for me. Early on in the stages of preparation for Ethiopia this was the place I was supposed to go. It seems distant history now, but I had invested a lot of time and energy in finding out about this place and its surroundings as well as investigating the local language, Tigrinya. Naturally I was extremely curious about the place. As with so many of my stops I was lucky to be able to visit a fellow volunteer and the local knowledge as always proved useful. My time in Adigrat was short, but it was enough to get a feel for the town and to visit a few places. I wandered down to the Catholic Cathedral and running into a member of the local clergy asked if I could be let into the locked building. Obliging and even providing some information about the building I entered into the tranquil calm of the church a far cry from the bustle of the Adigrat streets. It was a fairly modern building and the priest was clearly extremely proud of the ecumenical work and spoke of a recent funeral where members of a variety of denominations and religions had been in attendance together as well as a weekly ecumenical prayer session.

Inside Adigrat Cathedral (Entry = 0 Birr - Take a hint Ethiopian Orthodox Church)

Inside Adigrat Cathedral (Entry: Free – take note Ethiopian Orthodox Church)

There is also a painting above the sanctuary which includes symbols or buildings connected to all the Abrahamic religions. One of things that Ethiopians seem to be very good at – at least publicly is religious tolerance. Most, if not all, of the countries I have visited previously could learn a thing or two on this front.

Adigrat Street Scene

One of the things I enjoyed most about Adigrat was just walking the streets. Since the war with Eritrea this former border town has suffered economically from the border remaining closed and gives the impression of a former glory now slightly decayed. However, it is also a town under construction and perhaps has a brighter future ahead.

The new growing behind the old

It was also the first place I managed to get the elusive “doro wat”. This is the famous Ethiopia chicken dish that in spite of seeing chickens everywhere and the name featuring on numerous menus no restaurant seems to have. It lived up to its reputation of being a fine dish and one that is definitely worth hunting for.

Which came first the chicken or the egg? - well here they come together.

Which came first the chicken or the egg? Here they come together.

The volunteer I was staying with was, by coincidence, heading to Mekele the final place on my tour and I was fortunate enough to be able to join her in the hospital car that was taking her to the city. As the car pulled out of the city I found myself hoping to return because there was one thing I had not had time to do. When I had been doing all my research I had read about the rock churches of Tigray and one of the biggest draws when I thought I would be working in Adigrat was that I would be able to take trips out to see several of these. On this occasion I had not had enough time to do see even one. This is the one thing at the top of my Ethiopia “to do” list before I leave.

Is this doro wat made with nestlings?

Mekele is quite the city and in many ways more developed than many of the other places I have visited in Ethiopia. Apparently this has happened over the last 20 years or so. I had no particular plans of anything I wished to see there – most of it is modern anyway, but again it was good to wander the streets and just get a feel for the place. It is also the launching point for those who wish to head out to the Danakil Depression – the hottest place on Earth (I think its claim comes from having the highest average temperature) and also to where the remains of “Lucy” were found – everyone’s great, great, great, etc., etc., grandmother; this leading to the claim of Ethiopia being the birthplace of modern humans. However, more recent discoveries have led to several other countries nearby countering this claim. The reality being that this was now so long ago we’ll never know for sure.

Streets of Mekele

From Mekele I broke my land only rule and took the plane back to Addis, mainly because the bus seemed to be permanently booked for the next “x” days. I had unsuccessfully tried to get the bus from Addis to Mekele previously and then heard, while in Axum, of another volunteer unable to take the bus from Mekele to Addis for the same reason of it being booked out leading to a convoluted and difficult several days travel. It didn’t seem worth the hassle and I get a glimpse of the Afar region as the plane flew via that way. Definitely glad that I hadn’t been posted there, although it may be worth a brief, very brief, visit one day- if I have time.

Addis chaos

Addis was Addis; the same hustle and bustle and craziness as ever. I stayed a few days before heading back south with just a brief overnight in Hawassa and then an early morning bus to Adola. There was something pleasant as the bus turned off the main highway onto the side road to Adola and began to climb up into the green hills. Yes, the north had the majestic beauty of the Simian Mountains and Nile Gorge, but it didn’t have the life of the mountains in the south. Both have their charms and the trip north was unquestionably amazing, with special thanks to all the volunteers who accommodated and helped me out. Still, it was good to be heading home.

Peering through the murky window reveals spectacular vistas as the bus climbs its way up and down the sides of mountains.

Yes, the bus did go down that road…

When the tarmac gives way to dirt tracks it comes as some relief that I am doing this particular journey in the dry season and that unlike many of his countrymen the driver of the bus has a healthy fear of his own demise; taking the sharp bends with steady caution.

One at at time – thank goodness for the dry season

One of the most striking differences between Tigray (the region where Axum is found) is the buildings. As soon as the bus crossed into the region the houses started to be built from stone rather than mud (or the rarer wood). It gave a different feel to the area along with the starkness of the landscape – the mountains steeper and barer and with dry season starkness absent in the green south. It is undoubtedly impressive, especially in the contrast to the lush mountains and hills around Adola.

Historic sites of Axum 1 – the stelae field

I have done the journey now from Gondar to Axum by road – I don’t need to do it again. I am not sure if I will have the chance or inclination to visit Axum again, but if I do the plane seems a far better option.

The one the Italian’s took

This is not to say that Axum is not a place worth visiting, but the sites available for public visitation are rather limited, although not without interest and once again the historic sites of Ethiopia trump the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. But a handful of Birr, about the price of a coffee, is enough to get in to see most of the historic sites of the town and nearby and even without the local residence card it comes in at only 50birr (less than £2).

Tomb at stelae field

underground at stelae field

St Mary’s -the “most famous” church in Ethiopia, where it is alleged the Ark of the Covenant is held, is 200birr to all of pale complexion. For a visitor this is not much, but to a humble volunteer surrendering two days allowance it is not unreasonable to expect something more than this compound offers. If you ever find yourself passing by Axum way, give this church a miss- it will only disappoint and the remains of the Axumite empire that have been uncovered so far are infinitely superior to the internal view of a modern church with not much going for it and a lame museum.

Inside the church – consider it 200birr saved

There is some evidence to suggest that the Axumite empire, in its day, was the equal of its contemporaries, such as the Persian and Greek empires. The difference being that everyone has heard of those and the countries connected have made a huge effort to cash in on the tourist money that flows.

Historic sites of Axum 2 – The Queen of Sheba’s bath (allegedly)

Here in Ethiopia I have been shocked at how little interest history seems to have for people. Perhaps the recent past has too many bad connotations or the sense of living for today is more important. There is nothing wrong with this, but the danger lies in the repetition of past mistakes.

Historic sites of Axum 3 – the Queen of Sheba’s palace (only a few hundred years too recent…)

Just from an economic perspective this could be a massive source of income for the country and lead to huge strides in its development especially of financial independence – however, like the 40 year old child still living at their parents’ house there is a lack of desire to give up the easy aid money that flows into Ethiopia and which has seeped so far into the local culture that the assumption is that any foreigner of European heritage is going to just dole out money to anyone who asks, because that’s where you get money from.

Historic sites of Axum 4 – King Kaleb’s ‘Tomb’ (they forgot the body – actually he is buried in a monastery)

Unfortunately this is a particular issue in Axum and something that may well hinder the tourist trade – the constant hassle there is unlike anywhere else I have been in Ethiopia, with the possible exception of Addis. Although to be balanced it is only right to say that is nowhere near the level of some of the other countries I have visited. That after so many years of receiving aid they are still putting out their hand suggests that something hasn’t quiet worked. I will return to this theme.

A few days in Axum gave me a chance to wash my clothes and take a bit of a breather before heading on to see more of Tigray. And my thanks to my hosts who have been fortunate to be given a rather nice place to live… all placements are not equal!

How the other half live

Getting a bus to my next stop presented more of a challenge than I had anticipated. The use of buses does not show the hospitality of Ethiopians at their best; if there were a contest Axum bus station would be at the head of the league table for toughest bus to board – and firm favourites for the world cup. I failed to get and stay aboard the early bus although perhaps my error was in my failure to employ a small boy to rush on and grab a seat for me – a tactic employed by several older ladies. The one seat I managed to get, I surrendered to an American Peace Corps volunteer when I was told the bus wasn’t going to Adigrat – my intended destination.

Axum library – an interesting place to visit

Finally a little later in the day, reinforced by breakfast and in the daylight I returned to the station and managed to get the bus first to Adwa, a town famous for being near the site of the defeat of a European power by an African nation an unexpected victory for the home team that ended Italy’s hopes of colonisation and left Ethiopia able to lay claim to be the only African nation that wasn’t colonised. I saw only a little of the town and mostly the bus station from where I finally managed to get a bus heading to Mekele and which was probably going via Adigrat. With a sense of adventure I set off wondering where I was going to end up – my destiny in the hands of the driver.

Silver in Gold

Mr Silver goes to Ethiopia

Monthly Archives: May 2014

The last loop

Ancient Empires