Hi ho… Hi ho…. It’s off to work we go.

For those familiar with the TV series "Teachers", Donkeys are regular inhabitant of schools, along with cows, goats and a variety of other animals.

For those familiar with the TV series “Teachers”, Donkeys are regular inhabitant of schools, along with cows, goats and a variety of other animals.

If you don’t already know, the reason for me being out here is to help introduce a more student-centred and active learning approach to teaching here.  Yesterday, 2 weeks and 15 minutes after the initial planned starting date, the Higher Diploma Programme finally began here at Adola Centre for Teacher Education.

“But what”, I hear you cry, “have you been up to then, Mr Silver?  You have already been there for 8 weeks!”

Fret not.  I have not been idling away the hours twiddling my thumbs, relaxing in hot springs, or partying in Hawassa.

When I first came to Adola, I wanted to get an idea of what school life was really like and to this end I requested that I be taken to visit a few local schools.  The Vice-dean was most accommodating and within a few days of my arrival in Adola we were off to visit the closets school, which, incidentally, was also where the Vice-dean’s children go.

Students gather at the end of the day to sing and watch the flags being lowered.

Students gather at the end of the day to sing and watch the flags being lowered.

Some of you will be more familiar with the typical English classroom.  30 attendant pairs of eyes gaze eagerly to the front of the class ready to assimilate the great wisdom of their teacher… well maybe that’s not quite the image that immediately comes to mind, but certain features such a walls decorated with student work, large windows, whiteboards, tables and chairs may well come to mind.

Before I came out here I was expecting large classes and basic facilities – in particular in the more rural schools.  Fortunately my first visit was to a school in the town and Adola is a fairly large place, even if a little remote, so I knew that it would be some mud hut in the middle of nowhere.

Here is an example of one of the schools we visited.

Here is an example of one of the schools we visited.

The first thing that struck me was the setting.  The school seemed to fill quite a large area and there were a number of single story buildings that I presumed were the classrooms.  The outside space seemed very pleasant and dotted around the place were a number of physics equations.  How wonderful, I thought, good to see they are promoting the most important subjects. Our first stop was a fairly basic office where the Vice-dean introduced us to the vice-director of the school.  It would appear that our visit was not expected, but nevertheless we were able to have a tour, once the initial niceties were completed.  I entered my first Ethiopian classroom.

As my eyes slowly adjusted to the dark of the room, they widened as I attempted to count the number of students staring back at the stranger who had just walked in.  Needless to say foreigners are rare in these parts.  I must have come as quite a shock.  I lost count somewhere after 90, but was told there were over 100.  I was almost as shocked as the students.  The lesson naturally had come to a grinding halt- the teacher had had no warning of this English invasion of his class.  I dread to think how he managed to get them back on task.  The only comparison I can think of is as if a circus, complete with clowns, acrobats and a lion or two had just traipsed through an English classroom.

Child-filled room with low lighting levels.

Child-filled room with low lighting levels.

Naturally, it was not enough to distract one class in such a manner, we had to interrupt another teacher mid-flow, presumable to see if our results could be reproduced.  They could.  After we toured some of the other parts of the school – a locked library with a scattering of outdated text books and clearly unused; a resource centre that was more death trap than storage space for teaching aids and sparse staffroom.  As we made our way back to the college I gingerly suggested that it would be useful to actually see a couple of lessons.  “No problem”, said the vice-dean,” we’ll go back this afternoon.”

Well, we’d ruined the morning shift, why not ruin the afternoon one as well?

And this was only the beginning.  We visited three other schools over the next few days and then I got called into the Dean’s office.  I wondered what huge faux pas I had committed.  I fretted over who in the community I had offended. Prepared for a dressing down, I was surprised to discover that instead the Dean of the college wanted me to visit more schools, including the local High School and Preparatory School (this is roughly equivalent to a sixth form college).  I had been given a mission… from the local education board.  Sadly there was no super hero costume or badge to go with the role and as I didn’t really fancy the idea of wearing tights I was quite relieved.

A P.E. Lesson?  This one didn't seem to involve much movement beyond clapping and singing.

A P.E. Lesson? This one didn’t seem to involve much movement beyond clapping and singing.

And so, the month of October was put over to visiting a number of schools within the local area and handing out questionnaires for the directors and teachers of the schools visited.  It was quite an experience.  At one school, it was break time as I approached and jumping out of the 4WD I was mobbed by the entire school.  I made the mistake of shaking one hand and that was it, every child within a mile radius seemed to want to have a turn.  I needed more hands.  Finally I was hustled into the relative sanctuary of the director’s office.

There is a huge range between the schools and not just those in the countryside and those in the town.  Some schools have basic libraries with a few books, some have a library with no books and some have no library at all.  Many of the classrooms are dark, with light coming in through small windows, whereas others have airy classrooms with large, glass-filled windows.  Some are mud constructions, some are wood and others concrete and the class sizes seem to vary with some as small as 40 and one which had over 130 students crammed 5 to a desk.  The average was probably somewhere about 80.  My fervent wish for smaller class sizes back in the UK, felt somehow foolish now.

A library, with books.  This was the best one we saw and one that was actually being used.  Most of them were locked.

A library, with books. This was the best one we saw and one that was actually being used. Most of them were locked.

The range in teaching was huge too.  In some places the teachers ran out of material to teach and just stopped.  A couple of times I whispered to the vice-dean to ask what was happening.  He was as clueless as I was.  On the other hand some teachers really made an effort to engage their pupils, but use of active learning was rare – which is sort of how this ties into my being here.

This class had over 130 pupils.  I don't know where the 20 who were absent the day we visited would sit.

This class had over 130 pupils. I don’t know where the 20 who were absent the day we visited would sit.

However, I also had a parallel assignment.  My mission to identify any needs and make proposals to suggests solutions and who would be responsible.  The last visits took place on Thursday 31st October, only some of the questionnaires had been returned.  Could I finish my report by the end of the weekend so that it could be presented on the following Monday, enquired the Dean.  This of course meant finishing it by the end of the Friday so that one of my colleagues here could translate it into Afan Oromo, the local language.

It is quite common for the classrooms to have the outside walls decorated with educational materials, but no the inside.

It is quite common for the classrooms to have the outside walls decorated with educational materials, but no the inside.

Friday was a busy day.  13 pages of formal English later, I was ready Saturday morning to have a meeting with the Vice-dean and the head of the Education department at the college, who had drawn the short straw of having to translate.  The meeting took 4 hours and I am still not convinced that it was clear what I had written.  I inwardly cursed my training in report writing that encouraged the use of the passive voice and writing in the third person.  Still, I managed to raise a laugh with my proposal for a mobile library to bring something to the rural schools.  They left it in though – after all the officials at the education board should get to share in the joke.  I tried to not be offended, I felt that this was one of my less crazy suggestions.  Maybe they agreed and had just been polite on the others.

Monday came and went with no meeting.  Wednesday has come and gone with no meeting.  I have learned that such delays are common place.  I think the translation is finished now.  I expect to be told 5 minutes before –“We’re going to the meeting with the local education office now”.  A little part of me hopes that they will forget to take me – I am happy to miss the glory if it means avoiding a long meeting in an unfamiliar language… the ones back home in English were bad enough!

So, as you can see, my time has been filled with meaningful work.  Maybe they will take on board some of my suggestions.  Maybe when my time here comes to an end there will be a bus driving around to the rural schools with a load of books on board.  I don’t expect anything, but I do keep hoping.

Home Sweet Home

Before I came over to Ethiopia I had not really given a lot of thought to the setting I would find myself in.  Probably a good thing since it all changed at the last minute anyway.  When I first met the Dean of the college in Addis as part of the orientation he told me that it was green down in Adola, but that still hadn’t really prepared me for what I experienced on both the drive down and in the surroundings of Adola.  It is indeed very green and the scenery stretches as far as the eye can see.

greenviews

The biggest surprise was probably how many trees there are, not least on the campus itself- it’s almost like living in the middle of a forest.  It didn’t take long living here to realise why it was so green- there is clearly some connection with the amount of rain.  Remove from your mind images of life in a drought-struck village, and imagine instead my working on the building of an ark.  The weather has certainly made an effort to make me feel at home, although I don’t really think it was necessary to receive the entire UK’s annual rainfall in two days.

As this entry continues I fear I shall destroy some other images of my life here in Adola.  Living on the campus of the college has certain advantages.  Had you considered that I was living in some rustic mud hut, with thatched roof, then I am afraid I shall have to disappoint.  The construction is concrete and even has several rooms, but panic not- any mental visions of my trying to survive without running water are well founded.

houseHowever, this may not be forever.  The facilities are already in place, all that is required is to connect the college to some water source.  This will take only two months.  Sadly it is not clear which two months this will be and the vice-dean confirmed, not too long ago, that it was unlikely to be this year.  Fortunately a donkey does a great job of bringing jerry cans to the college filled with water and I have made firm friends with the young lad whose job it is to guide the donkey.

Now I am unsure how drinkable this water is, suffice to say it is boiled at least once and filtered (although I have my doubts about the filter since discovering particles floating in the lower half of the filtering system).  Often I will boil it again, just to be sure… so far there have been no ill effects – and don’t worry I shan’t go into detail if that changes.

My home is lightly furnished, but comfortable.  I did some rearranging to get the furniture how I liked it, but this has been altered a few times because of my Serategna.

living roomIn Ethiopia it is not unusual to have a worker, this is usually a lady, who completes various household tasks, such as cleaning, laundry and cooking.  This is something that some volunteers are keener on than others, mainly from the perspective that it is a chance to put some money into the local economy and help give employment.  In a country where unemployment is extremely high I see this as a good thing.  It also has the added advantage that the serategna can purchase the necessary food items to provide the meals.  Of course this means missing out on the joy of wandering the markets and the shops as well as missing out on the opportunity to pay the special foreigner price…

Naturally it is for all the good reasons that I have made this hiring and nothing to do with my skills in the kitchen or lack of a washing machine…

kitchenSo far we seem to be getting on well.  She speaks very little English, but has managed to get the stuff done that is needed and I have taught her how to make porridge.  The only thing is she did keep moving my furniture around, clearly I am the boss and know how I want things and am sure I can make this clear with time, but for now I’ll, err, just leave it as it is…

bedroom

Post Offices and Banks

Monday, my first full day in Adola and my first day at work, did not involve much work or even much time at work.  I was given an induction as required by VSO.  That is to say I was taken on a tour of the college campus, the highlight being a rat running through the drains.  Then on into the town, partly to buy food, I didn’t have any, and partly to set about a few of the tasks needed when setting up a new place.

First stop was the post office and here I was fortunate to make a new friend; the postmaster of Adola, who most helpful in the setting up of a P.O. Box. Ethiopia does not deliver to the door, but relies instead on banks of lockable cubbyholes.  Large parcels are stored behind the counter, small parcels too for that matter.  Not much would fit in one of these little boxes.

The post office has already become, along with the wonderful Abera Hotel (see last post), one of my most visited spots in Adola.  I have not yet dared to peek into the box for fear of opening it and finding it empty, but have managed to make use of the Post office’s services to send a few letters, much to the surprise of the Vice-Dean- “Why don’t you just send an email?”

For those of you who appreciate the merits of more traditional methods of communication here is my address:

P.O.Box 43
Adola/Kibre Mengist Post Office
Oromia
Ethiopia

The postmaster, however, always seems pleased to have me visit and is already ready with a warm welcome and a friendly smile as well as an attempt to teach me a few Amharic phrases.  Each time I entrust my post to him and he somehow manages to attach the plethora of stamps required to send the letter.

Send something!  When I finally check I want the box to be positively overflowing, after all this service is costing me over £2/ year.

The second stop was the shops and I loaded up my bag with items I had failed to purchase in Addis Ababa.  All this was done with the help and negotiating skills of the Vice-Dean.  I am not convinced that he helped me to make a big saving, but he certainly did a better job than I could have done.

The final stop, not including coffee breaks, was at the Commercial Bank of Ethiopia.  As instructed by VSO I ventured in to open a bank account.  This was after having to leave my bag stuffed with all kinds of goodies with the armed guard at the door.  At least it was well protected.

We had been told during our orientation that all we needed was our VSO card and two passport photos.  Now, I don’t know if it was something to do with the status of my companion, the Vice-Dean (the college seems to have a lot of clout around town), or the fact that I had a copy of my passport with me, but the process seemed much smoother than the experiences of other volunteers.  VSO take heed, the VSO card was of no interest whatsoever to the bank, but the passport copy did seem sufficient.  However, when I attempted to ask about money being paid into the account, the worker at the bank seemed to misunderstand and thought I was talking about money from the UK.  This didn’t seem to be possible.

I have given the details to the VSO finance team and when the first allowance is due to be deposited I shall see if it actually arrives.  If you hear of a foreigner begging in the streets of Adola….send help.

At least I know the method: “You! You! Money!”

Adola: Town of a thousand donkeys

Eager anticipation glints in my eyes, there is almost an air of excitement.  Before me lies my destiny, my future:  Adola College of Teacher Education.  The place that is to be my home for the next two years.  Gates bar the way, but they are opened as I approach and I am welcomed across the threshold by the gentlemen whose job it is to guard the entrance to the college.  The barbed wire atop the fence creates a slight sense of incarceration, but I bat this back as I walk the path to my new home.  The Dean and Vice-Dean are here to welcome me, although they seem a little surprised – “We didn’t expect you until tomorrow”.

Nevertheless, the welcome is warm and even extends to the Dean offering me one of his jerry cans of water as I have none at home, nor do I know how to get it.  I put this high on my list of things to find out – water is important.

Lack of water is not my only problem, I also have no food.  This is initially solved by an invitation from the Dean and Vice-Dean to dinner at the finest hotel in town- the Abera Hotel.  It might even by so classy an establishment to have been listed with a star, but I doubt it.  Still, it is the best Adola has to offer and I am clearly to be treated.

The main road through town.

The main road through town.

The first impressions of a town stick with you and if I am to be brutally honest (unlike me I know) Adola has little to offer to please the eye, nor to entertain the mind.  It is in essence a road with buildings either side.  It is true that some dirt tracks head off from the main sealed, but mud bedecked road, but there seems to be little to appeal to the casual visitor.  However, I would focus on what it does have.  There is a bank, a post office, a number of small shops, selling a passable range of usable products a few churches and mosques and a bus station.  Oh and the Abera Hotel… I have come to believe that this is the town’s best attraction, but there are more buildings and there could be some serious competition for this place soon (by which I mean the next 10-15 years).

A side street

A side street

What Adola lacks in charm and entertainment it makes up for in donkeys and people.  The former of which there are a plentiful supply, the latter are friendly and helpful and certainly a combination of interesting characters.

My first stroll into town was accompanied by frequent curious glances and shouts of children calling out “You! You! You!” to gain my attention.  On one or two occasions this was followed by a very half-hearted “money!” As if they already knew the futility of it and it certainly lacked the persistence and hassle that I have previously experienced in Addis or Hawassa.

Now, nearly three weeks after arriving here I have noticed a decided drop in the attention I am receiving here.  I have walked into the town enough to be an increasingly familiar sight.  I reckon in a few months that they won’t even be able to distinguish me from a local… once I get a handle on the local language that is.