I would like to cast myself as a sort of reluctant hero type, jetting off to save the world, but know that the reality is far from the truth, well the hero part anyway. Reluctance definitely plays a big part. For example I was reluctant to give up the safety net of fellow furenji (as we foreigners are affectionately known here) and head to my placement. This led to my spending last weekend, a long weekend thanks to the Ethiopian public holiday of Meskel, in the company of several volunteers who have the good fortune of finding themselves based in Hawassa- the great lakeside town of southern Ethiopia. This place positively bustles, with high-end hotels and quite possibly a higher density of furenji than anywhere else in Ethiopia. Certainly the VSO volunteer to Ethiopian ratio is higher than anywhere else, although there are more volunteers based in Addis.
Hawassa has supermarkets, flash restaurants and a plethora of sights and sounds to amuse the eyes and ears. Great Hippos occasionally surface on the lake and there are hills to climb replete with following crowds of children crying “you! You! Furenji!” followed swiftly by “money, give me money” or slightly less demanding requests for chocolate or pens. None showed the inventiveness of the girl in Addis who demanded 5000 Birr (about £160) with a beaming a smile, but they did show us a goat path down the hill towards the fish market. My fellow furenji were more tolerant and appeared at one stage to be as pipers of Hamlyn with a crowd of children bustling behind. Nonetheless we made it down alive and with all with which we had begun our journey – plus memories of spectacular views across the town. It looked even more impressive from on high.
There is however a price to pay for the Hawassa experience. Being sociable and eating out, particularly in the more salubrious establishments, can impact on the pocket. For example a night out at the Venice restaurant left me a good £5 poorer. It doesn’t seem like much until you realise that the allowance VSO provides gives a daily budget of £3 and you have just paid out nearly two days worth in the space of a few hours. Food parcels gratefully accepted- assuming they make it through the rigours of customs (and bear in mind it can take months for things to arrive).
All this having been said, it was a very worthwhile weekend, even if it did involve missing the big bonfires of Meskel on the Thursday due to confusion about when the actual celebration took place. Still, I will have another opportunity next year and now I know when it happens I shall make sure I get a ringside seat, well maybe not too close- I don’t want to introduce the concept of the “guy” to Ethiopia.
The highlights were definitely hanging out with the other volunteers as we rooted out a number of fine establishments for the imbibing of coffee and fruit juices, not to mention the pot luck of choosing breakfasts at the wonderful Titem restaurant from a menu all in Amharic… number 5 & 7 on one day and 8 & 14 the next. Either all the food is good or we struck lucky each time. I can now read the Amharic for Tuna and have learned the Amharic word for fish (Asa) – trust me to end up near one of the few places where fish is readily available in a landlocked country.
Will I go back to Hawassa? Certainly, when I am in need of something resembling civilisation. There are many sights still to be seen and that Titem Special Burger, that slipped from my gasp on one of the many evening power cuts, still calls. I have instructed the resident volunteers to produce a rota for putting me up, although they may be relieved to hear that the costs of travel in both time and money make it quite challenging to be too regular a visitor. Plus I really need to give Adola at least a bit of a chance… after all, there is a gold mine nearby. Hiiiii Hooooo….
Howdy 🙂 is there any chance of you using a bank? Or is that a totally crazy idea? We are happy to stock up your ” going out funds” a little. Just take care of yourself. 🙂 Isa x
Thanks Isa, here in Adola there isn’t really anything to spend money on, but I appreciate the offer. However, I would welcome any contributions to my justgiving page if you feel able. http://www.justgiving.com/mr-silver
Hi Michael
Sounds like you’re doing alright.
Forgot to ask at the airport, which bag did you pack your cafetiere in 😉
We will get around to dropping your stuff off at your parents sometime, including the car key that I found in my coat pocket yesterday!
Take care costa,
Love from
Jo and Richard
Sadly no cafetiere 🙁 I figured that that sort of thing would be easy to buy in the home of coffee… I was wrong! Am sure I will manage to find something to make coffee with. Although, they do like to pile the sugar in – I need to keep asking them for coffee without sugar! They also have some strange plant that they sometimes add in… I’m not yet convinced!
Not going to comment too much on the car key, since I had managed to forget it in my pocket too.
M
Good to know you’re well and you’ve had time to explore a bit. Just think all those language courses and you’re still struggling with menus! It all sounds pretty good so far.
Take care
Helen
Sadly none of them were in Afana Oromo or Amharic… ate something very strange the other day!
Dear Mr Silver
I am writing on behalf of 9 St Wilfrid’s of St Philip Howard High School to tell you that we indeed miss you as a form tutor. The year is finally in full swing and the duties of student voice and house captain are baring in – already Conor, Eloise, Megan and I have begun our contribution to the arrangement of a year nine party, or ‘event’ as it is better well known.
As a form we are quite still getting used to the regimentality of our new tutor, Mr Van Hoek (Another well established Physics teacher). Silence is key to keeping him happy, which in my opinion is a bit of a set back on the bonding and cohesion of our group, but none the less, he has cracked down on the dreaded discipline of planner signing…
I thought it would be nice to let you know that Stephen, Kyle, Conor and I are still frequent masters of the general knowledge trivial pursuit that is the weekly quiz.
I also thought that it would be nice to drop by the status of our academic competitivity with rival form 9 St Richards. We are both battling it out vigorously for the top spot of most achieving form, with Mr Van Hoek trying ever so hard to to find legitimate ways to give us achievement points – one of which was, and I quote, “3 points to whoever can tell me a decent joke”. To no surprise it was me first to step up with a physics joke to tickle his funny bone, (get ready for this one…):
A neutron walks into a bar, and asks for the price of a drink,
The bartender replies: ‘For you, no charge’
Achievement points well earned, in my opinion.
Anyway, in other parts of school life, another dash can be added to the tally of broken-left-forearms-through-football; in this case being Alessio… But don’t worry it wasn’t Kyle’s fault this time.
Well that sums up the important features of our year so far. from what I understand Ethiopia is an interesting yet exciting, and well working experience?
Enjoy your time improving education for the better,
Yours sincerely,
Nick Kabanas
On behalf of 9 St Wilfrid’s
Wonderful to hear from you Nick and the antics of 9 Wilfrid’s- good to hear the priorities are there in the party arrangements. Make sure that you don’t let St Richard’s get the better of you- Wilfrid’s are clearly a far superior form.
Congratulations on the Physics joke – I am sure you are able to keep Mr Van Hoek amused with many more and keep earning those points.
Glad to hear that Kyle is not continuing in his destructive behaviour on the football field, but I hope that Alessio is not too uncomfortable.
Ethiopia is proving to be exceptionally friendly and the moment, although they are currently disappointed with this evening’s loss to Nigeria in the world cup qualifier after a promising performance and 1-0 lead.
Keep up the good work and I look forward to hearing how you are trouncing 9 Richard’s over the next few months.
Mr Silver